Communing with Ben-Gurion

Ben-Gurion is everywhere, it seems. Here in Sde Boker, Israel's first prime minister lived out the end of his life, reading, writing, and working the land. As I learn more about this beautiful land in southern Israel, I learn to recognize his legacy.

I am indebted to historian (and friend) Paula Kabalo for the private lectures, tours, and explanations of what Nancy and I have seen.

When David Ben-Gurion decided to leave political life, he applied to join a kibbutz in what at that time seemed to Israelis like the end of the earth: a kibbutz on the southern reaches of Israel. Deep in the Negev desert. But the young people who had chosen this life so far from the bustle of Jerusalem and Tel Aviv wanted nothing to do with it: an old man, the Prime Minister, wanted to join them. Why would they want the attention, the press, the interference in their lives? Isn't this what they left to get away from?

In the end, they really didn't feel comfortable saying "no." And so they gave him the hard jobs like shoveling manure, hoping to break his will to stay. Clearly they didn't know Ben-Gurion. Armed guards might have to watch over him, but he remained in the fields working. As time went on, he became a valued member of the kibbutz, though he spent most of his final years reading and writing in his study, decorated with symbols of the world leaders he respected the most: Ghandi and Lincoln.

Ben-Gurion's friends brought an architect to design his final home, a gorgeous modern building, well-equipped for the stream of visitors who came to see him. Perched on the rim of the canyon adjacent to Sde Boker, it offered a spectacular and inspirational view. But B-G would have nothing to do with the new building, which would eventually house his archives. He would remain on the kibbutz; close to the land and to the people.

Ben-Gurion's legacy is felt here not only in his personal artifacts, but in the expression of his ideas. The grounds surrounding his home showcase quotations regarding his views of the Negev. Here is where the Jewish people will be tested: in their ideas and ideals; in their mastery of science and technology; in their strength and perseverance. And so it's here in the Negev that Ben-Gurion University houses its research institutes: this is a center for technology research.

The main gate of Sde Boker carries the quotation: "We will bloom the desolate land and turn the spacious Negev into a source of force and power, a blessing to the state of Israel." It's a quotation often taken out of context to support any number of negative interpretations. Taken in the context of Ben-Gurion's passion to create a safe haven for the Jewish people, and against a backdrop of the persecutions and resulting refugee crisis of Ben-Gurion's day, the quotation seems more about collective self-reliance and safety.

Ben-Gurion expressed repeatedly his intention to include the Arabs of Palestine in the new society he was building -- and the importance of doing so. And so it's probably no coincidence that at the university that bears his name, Muslim women are highly visible in their numbers. They're Bedouin women, attending on special scholarships set up by the government to help ease the transition from their extremely traditional, insular societies into a modern lifestyle -- however the Bedouin communities will come to define that. I also learned about extensive civic services being provided by the government to Bedouin communities, only some of which have adopted official status as towns.

I found it very moving, the degree to which Israel is reaching out to help these communities. Humanitarianism is of course not the only reason; there's also self-interest at work, and the desire to ameliorate a bad situation and prevent future conflict. But Israel's willingness to do so flies in the face of the sort of those cynical accusations we hear. So does the experience of daily life in the Negev. But more about that later.

For now, I have to say that for all we hear about the shortcomings of Israeli society, Ben-Gurion's vision of a pluralistic, modern society is alive and well in the Negev Desert.

Photos are here.